Keeping a healthy Gecko isn’t a science, but you do have to take steps to ensure that the ambient air temperature throughout the enclosure is maintained between eighty to eighty five degrees Fahrenheit and the basking area to be kept at about ninety degrees Fahrenheit. During the late evening hours and at night, you may allow the temperature to settle, but do not got allow the ambient air to drop below seventy-three to seventy-five degrees Fahrenheit , while keeping the basking area of al least eighty degrees Fahrenheit.
Special reptile heating pads that are manufactured to maintain a temperature about 20 degrees higher than the air temperature may be used inside the enclosure. There are adhesive pads that can be stuck to the underside of a glass enclosure. Heating pads made for people, available at all drug stores, are also available; these have built-in hi-med-lo switches and can be used under a glass enclosure. You can also use incandescent light bulbs in porcelain and metal reflector hoods to provide the additional heat required for the basking area. All lights must be screened off to prevent the snake from burning itself.
Pythons especially ball pythons are very susceptible to thermal burns. For this same reason do not use hot rocks. A relatively new item on the market are ceramic heating elements. They radiate heat in downward direction, do not emit light and best of all have a long lifespan. Plugged into a thermostat will allow you to adjust the temperature inside the tank as the ambient room temperature will change with the seasons.
Your Python’s enclosure temperature is essential. If the enclosure is left too hot, or too cold, your animal will become ill, won’t eat and will eventually die. Don’t guess the temperature, but instead pick up a couple of small thermometers - use one thermometer to track the overall area temperature and place it about one inch about the enclosure floor. The other can be placed approximately one inch about the floor in the basking area.
Once you get home with your new pet, allow it to become accustom to its new environment for a couple of weeks. To begin, start your baby Gecko with a single, pre-killed one week to ten day old mouse. Smaller babies will require a smaller mouse. Older Ball Pythons may be fed larger pre-killed mice or even pinkie rats. At times, you may have to force feed your snake which will be a very stressful situation for your lizard. Take a few moments and watch someone else perform this exercise and learn from the experience. If your Gecko has gone lengthy periods without eating, and weight loss is apparent, to it to a vet or contact someone who has more knowledge about ball pythons and feeding problems.
As with any pet, routine veterinary care for newly acquired snakes is always essential. Many parasites infesting the ball python and other reptiles may also be transmitted to humans and other reptiles. Infestations can of course harm and even kill your snake. Collect a small sample when the snake first defecates and place it into a clear plastic bag and seal it. Mark it with the date, your phone number, name and the snakes name and have a vet experienced with reptiles examine the sample. There will be tests conducted and if needed proper medication given if the worms or protozoan infections are found
Found commonly in captive ball pythons are retained eye shed, also referred to spectacles and mites. When a ball pithing sheds, or any snake for that matter, the layer of skin over their eye is also she, and can be clearly seen when examining a piece of head shed. Be consistent when checking your balls head shed to assure it has shed the spectacles. If one or both spectacles have been retained, bath your snake in warm water for about five to ten minutes. Before returning it to the enclosure, please a dad of mineral oil on that eye with a cotton-tipped swab. The spectacle should come off with in a day. If this doesn’t work, then you may want to seek the services of a veteran.
Mites are commonly related to poor environment conditions. Adult mites are tiny reddish brown dots which can be difficult to find. You may notice one or more crawling up your hand and arm shortly after handling your snake, and while not dangerous to humans, the will often cluster around your snakes eyes and body. Mites are harmful to snakes, particularly those that have not been kept properly. Fortunately, they are easy and inexpensive to get rid of, but can be a time consuming process.
A common, health snake shed is in the form of one piece of skin from snout to tail-tip. If a snake does not shed cleanly, its typically a sign that something is not right. Either with your snake or its environment. A new snake, may not shed properly for the first month or two as they are likely still getting accustom to their new surroundings. This is commonly known as a sign of transient stress. If this continues, or becomes an issue with an older snake, then the specie must be evaluated for possible health problems and the animals environment needs to be evaluated for humidity issues.
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