Consider feeding your pet Boa only quality rats or mice. The Boa will need not additional food or supplementation. Be sure you buy your rodents from a good source to prevent mites and disease. Boa’s two years or younger should be feed one appropriately sized rodent very seven to ten days. Over feeding your boa may lead to premature death, improper growth and regurgitation. Once boas near adulthood, they will thrive while being fed very ten to fourteen days. Its okay to feed your Boa more or less often but ensure you monitor the weight so that the boa does not become overweight or obese.
Your Boa for the most part will be eating frozen/thawed prey. If you have a new pet Boa that is currently eating live rodents, it will more than likely also eat frozen/thawed rodents as provide from a pair of tongs. Pre-killed rodents are always best, whether they are frozen/thawed or freshly killed, because live rodents may cause harm to your boa. If your snake does not kills it’s pretty (boas will not eat if they are not hungry or are kept under improper conditions), the rodent may actually bit or kill your boa. Even if the boa does constrict its prey, the rodent may bite before it is killed. Never leave your boa unattended with a live rodent.
Boa’s control their body temperatures through a process called thermoregulation, and the enclosure should have both a cool side and a warm side. This is an important aspect of keeping a boa in captivity and for its well being. Your boa will shift between the warm and the cool side in order to adjust its own body temperature and make itself comfortable.
You will need to modulate the temperatures in your cage and should not allow the temperature to drop below seventy-five degrees Fahrenheit. The warm side should be eighty five degrees, with a hot spot of at least ninety degrees provided by a heating device placed under the cage. The process of heating from below is known as belly heat. Boa constrictors greatly prefer this, so they can coil over the rising heat.
Various devices are sold which help provide under tank heating, or belly heat, for your pet. Other possibilities such as cable and heat tape are also available right here at Petware House. Under-tank heating devices should be controlled with a proportional thermostat or rheostat. Some heat sources, especially heat tape, can get too hot for some enclosures and they must be regulated for both your safety and that of your pet. Use caution when using such devices as they require ventilation for dissipating heat. If too heat builds up, it can damage the bottom of your tank, or cause other caging materials to melt or overheat.
Overhead lighting is an option and is typically not needed. If you decide on an overhead bulb, it should be placed directly over the source of the belly heat. Be sure to leave a small thermostat near the hot spot so you can you can easily check the combined heat temperature of both the heat pad and light build, periodically.
A lot-wattage fluorescent bulb has a number of uses in your snakes environment. Firstly, it allows for better observation of your pet and we can’t argue that fact. More importantly, it will provide your pet with much needed photoperiod, or day / night cycles which is a requirement for your Boa. Full-spectrum bulbs with UVB may provide physiological and physical benefits for your bet, but this is not a proven fact.
Your pet Boa can be kept on several types of substrate which include newspaper, aspen, brown or white butcher paper and cage carpet are the most popular substrate used. Cypress barks and Fir are also used, but not as frequently. If using the later, but sire that it does not become too damp as this will hold humidity. When using carpet or aspen, the cage can be spot cleaned, easily, with a complete change occurring as required. If you should decide on using paper, the entire substrate should be changed each time a cage cleaning occurs.
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