The Red Tailed boa constrictor is a relatively fast growing specie from its hatchling to it’s full grown adult size. Its suggested that your plans for a tank be at least three square feet at the base and about three or four feet in height. We also recommend a sturdy climbing branch anchored to the floor or wall of the of the enclosure. Be sure to use a basking light at the top of the enclosure and to maintain a temperature of at least eighty to ninety degrees Fahrenheit at all times, with a warmer area in one corner over an under tank heating pad, preferably under a bowl of water large enough to all the bow to soak. As part of your daily maintenance, be sure to change the water and clean up after your boa. Keep the humidity steady at about sixty percent and do not allow it drop below this.
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A pet Boa will require a long-term commitment as some of them have been known to live for as long as thirty years. It’s currently not un common to find Pet Boa’s in their twenties as still going strong. Rest assured your pet boa, providing ideal circumstances, will be with you for a very long time.
The Sand Boa is appealing to man pet owners as a result of its minimalistic space requirements. Even the larger Kenyan Sand Boa can be hosed in a ten-gallon terrarium with a secure lid or an equally sized enclosure. A plastic container with air holes for ventilation will also work well. Ensure that the lid is properly sealed because a the Boa can easily push the lid off of a plastic container.
Its advised to use an undertank heating pad under one side of the cage, left on twenty-four hours per day, seven days a week along with an overhead, incandescent lightbuld, during the day as this will help keep heat the inner cage area. Remember to keep the basking area at around ninety five degrees Fahrenheit and the cooler side of the enclosure at around eighty degrees. Too high or to low a water mark is not acceptable to your boa.
Boa’s can live communally with no fuss whatsoever, but separating them for feeding is always suggested. Do not house two or more male Kenyan Sand Boa’s together as they are territorial although a male and a female will typically have no problems.
Avoid decorating the Boa’s cage with rocks or other have items that may hurt or kill your snake. Kenyan Sand Boa burrows beneath heave rocks which could cause an avalanche. Besides its small size, the Sand Boas can be very destructive to your cage’s interior so there is no need for it to excessive.
Although decorations such as branches can be a nice touch, the Boa rarely climbs. They are terrestrial creatures that prefer to spend of their time underground.
Your new pet will need some time to become accustom to its new surroundings, prior to feeding it. Do not attempt to feed a new Boa for three to give days after getting it home. Your Boa will be fine for a number of days without any food. If you feed it too soon, it might regurgitate as a result of the move to your home and the stress caused by this. Be sure to check the temperatures in your home and be sure not to feed it again for a couple of weeks. Two of the most well known causes of regurgitation are improper temperature and stress from being handles, so ensure cage temperatures are accurate and avoid handling your boa.
As a recommended feeding level for your boa and a general rule of them, never feed your more than the snakes mid-body girth. It should never exhibit a bulge after eating. Particularly in younger boas, a meal that is often too large may lead to regurgitation. An established boa will handle a meal resulting in a small bulge, just fine.
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The Red Tailed Boa is an exciting and truly fascinating Species of Snake. We carry a large variety of these exotic beauty’s, right here at our Pet Store. Don’t hesitate
to visit walk in and ask any our great team members for assistance.
The Red-tailed boa are exotic ambush hunters: they will hunt-down and squeeze their prey, killing it by sheer restriction, shutting down blood supply to major organs and swallowing it whole.
A respetable-sized meal can help sustain them for up to a month
They have prehensile tails that they can use to grip tree branches. The term “prehensile” means adapted for seizing, grasping, or taking hold of something.
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Consider feeding your pet Boa only quality rats or mice. The Boa will need not additional food or supplementation. Be sure you buy your rodents from a good source to prevent mites and disease. Boa’s two years or younger should be feed one appropriately sized rodent very seven to ten days. Over feeding your boa may lead to premature death, improper growth and regurgitation. Once boas near adulthood, they will thrive while being fed very ten to fourteen days. Its okay to feed your Boa more or less often but ensure you monitor the weight so that the boa does not become overweight or obese.
Your Boa for the most part will be eating frozen/thawed prey. If you have a new pet Boa that is currently eating live rodents, it will more than likely also eat frozen/thawed rodents as provide from a pair of tongs. Pre-killed rodents are always best, whether they are frozen/thawed or freshly killed, because live rodents may cause harm to your boa. If your snake does not kills it’s pretty (boas will not eat if they are not hungry or are kept under improper conditions), the rodent may actually bit or kill your boa. Even if the boa does constrict its prey, the rodent may bite before it is killed. Never leave your boa unattended with a live rodent.
Boa’s control their body temperatures through a process called thermoregulation, and the enclosure should have both a cool side and a warm side. This is an important aspect of keeping a boa in captivity and for its well being. Your boa will shift between the warm and the cool side in order to adjust its own body temperature and make itself comfortable.
You will need to modulate the temperatures in your cage and should not allow the temperature to drop below seventy-five degrees Fahrenheit. The warm side should be eighty five degrees, with a hot spot of at least ninety degrees provided by a heating device placed under the cage. The process of heating from below is known as belly heat. Boa constrictors greatly prefer this, so they can coil over the rising heat.
Various devices are sold which help provide under tank heating, or belly heat, for your pet. Other possibilities such as cable and heat tape are also available right here at Petware House. Under-tank heating devices should be controlled with a proportional thermostat or rheostat. Some heat sources, especially heat tape, can get too hot for some enclosures and they must be regulated for both your safety and that of your pet. Use caution when using such devices as they require ventilation for dissipating heat. If too heat builds up, it can damage the bottom of your tank, or cause other caging materials to melt or overheat.
Overhead lighting is an option and is typically not needed. If you decide on an overhead bulb, it should be placed directly over the source of the belly heat. Be sure to leave a small thermostat near the hot spot so you can you can easily check the combined heat temperature of both the heat pad and light build, periodically.
A lot-wattage fluorescent bulb has a number of uses in your snakes environment. Firstly, it allows for better observation of your pet and we can’t argue that fact. More importantly, it will provide your pet with much needed photoperiod, or day / night cycles which is a requirement for your Boa. Full-spectrum bulbs with UVB may provide physiological and physical benefits for your bet, but this is not a proven fact.
Your pet Boa can be kept on several types of substrate which include newspaper, aspen, brown or white butcher paper and cage carpet are the most popular substrate used. Cypress barks and Fir are also used, but not as frequently. If using the later, but sire that it does not become too damp as this will hold humidity. When using carpet or aspen, the cage can be spot cleaned, easily, with a complete change occurring as required. If you should decide on using paper, the entire substrate should be changed each time a cage cleaning occurs.
Red Tailes Boa Care Sheet
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