We do not recommend any sort of loose substrates which could easily be ingested such as sand, bark, fish tank pebbles or walnut shells which can be easily digest and hurt your pet, or worse, cause death. There have been a number of reported Leopard deaths from consuming too much sand while striking at crickets.
Here at Petware House, we carry a wide variety of substrates such as reptile carpet, unglazed ceramic tiles and slate which make for a more natural enclosure. Most breeders though do agree that paper towels or newspaper are the best choice for substrate.
Due to their nocturnal nature, Leopard Geckos do not require any sort of artificial lighting to keep warm or pile up on the vitamin D. For the Gecko, overhead lighting will raise the ambient temperature in the enclosure which Is not required. Also be aware that Leopard Geckoes’ eyes are very sensitive and their eyesight is poor in bright light. Under any circumstances, do not expose your Gecko to direct sunlight.
The Leopard Gecko, as with all reptiles are cold blooded and rely on their surrounding environment to keep warm or call. As a result, we highly recommend using an under tank heater (UTH) on one side of the Geckoe’s enclosure. This will allow your specie to move back and forth within the tank to adjust their own body temperature. We refer to this as thermal regulation and it’s critical for their metabolism, immune systems, and digestion.
The perfect temperature range for the Gecko is around ninety to ninety-four degrees, on the floor surface of the warm side of their enclosure and normal room temperature around seventy to seventy four degrees on the cool side. Us their belly heat to determine the overall heat source since in their natural habitat they utilize the head absorbed from the sun in the rocks to aid in their digestion.
The Leopard Gecko should shed their skin about once every two to four weeks. We might also add that they eat their skin once it sheds off – so don’t be alarmed by this. Its very important that all the skin come off escpically from the toes and eyelids as Geckos can loose their toes to infection if the skin does not shed completely.
If shedding should become an issue for your Gecko, it may be necessary to keep the substrate around the housing moist by misting it with water, placing damp paper towel inside or adding a separate moist hide in their enclosure. If the shedding issues continue and for severe cases, try soaking your Leopard Geckos feet in ½ inch of warm water and then using a swab, very gently remove any residual skin from their toes or eyelids in a rolling motion. Loose skin can be removed manually.
Approach your new Gecko with care, keeping your hand low and your palm in the upward position, before picking up your Gecko. Avoid reaching down from over their head because the will become started and think your some sort of predator.
Whatever you do, don’t grab the Gecko by the tail. Like all lizards, when they are attacked or threatened and may inadvertently drop their tail. When a lizard loses its tail, it will become open a susceptible to disease and infection while a new tail grows back. The tail will eventually grow back, but regenerated tails are never quite as nice as the original.
Since the Gecko is a desert dweller, they store water, fat and nutrients in their tail (similar to that of a camel) so its important they don’t lose their tails.
The Leopard Geckos mainly eat mealworms, life crickets, waxworms, roach nymphs and silk works. Use caution when feeding them as anything larger than about ¾ of their head to prevent chocking. Appropriate sized mealworms can be put in a small bowl with added calcium. Babies should be fed five to seven small crickets or roach nymphs every day until they reach about four inches in length. Then, larger prey every other day till they become full grown in about ten to twelve months. Adults can be fed six or seven large crickets or roaches two or three times a week.
Feed your Gecko waxworms, but only on occasion as they are high in fat and cholesterol and because they may become spoiled if they are fed them too often which will lead to your pet refusing other food items.
We always recommend providing your Gecko with a variety of foods. Since Geckos assimilate calcium and vitamins from their diet, feeder insects must be dusted with a mixture of ultra fine calcium powder every two or three feeds, and reptile vitamins once a week.
Keep in mind that your Gecko is dependent on the proper supplementation of calcium and vitamins, otherwise, serious diseases may result. Metoblic Bone Disease is caused by calcium deficiency and permanently disfigure or ultimately kill your Gecko.
Keep in mind that your Gecko is dependent on the proper supplementation of calcium and vitamins, otherwise, serious diseases may result. Metabolic Bone Disease is caused by calcium deficiency and permanently disfigure or ultimately kill your Gecko.
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