The Tree Frog is without question of the most popular and common types of pet frogs kept in captivity. They are very easy to maintain and go about their daily business within a confined space, quite well. With proper care the Tree Frog is considered to be a long lived pet and are a good choice for small children.

Tree Frogs occur in a number of regions of the world with the exception of some arid regions and colder southern parts of the country. If many cases you will find that they readily occupy habitat that has been degraded and altered by humans and occupy rain water pipes and shower recesses, septic tanks and any moist warm locations provided by human structures.

Its not uncommon to find this specie breeding in and around suburban ponds or swimming pools and lay a large range of eggs from two-thousand to three-thousand each time. They are regularly accidently transported all over the world in product like tropical fruit and plants.

Most adult tree frogs will reach a full size of about ten centimeters and in most cases, live beyond twenty-five years. Petware House can tell you that its best to select a young animal from a reputable source, which helps ensure they were not collected from the wild and that you are not inheriting problems created by someone else.

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Petware House carries a number of suitable containers which can serve as habitat for your pet. We carry a number of glass and plastic tanks although plastic tanks may be corroded by ultra violet lighting. We highly suggest a glass tank for best visibility, longevity and aesthetic appeal. Any enclosure must be secure and escape proof while allowing for proper ventilation and security while allowing some ultra-violate light to reach your pet. A standard three foot, ninety centimeter aquarium would adequately house a few adult frogs.

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It’s critical to keep your pet frog and it’s environment at proper temperatures. Prolonged exposure to temperatures under ten degrees will result in death of your animal. The most effective way to heat your frog’s enclosure is by the use of an aquarium heater placed in the water. We want the water temperature in the twenty-four to twenty six degree Celsius range which will help ensure that the enclosure remains at or above the eighteen degree Celsius range. Use a waterfall to help maintain and stabilize the temperature and humidity of the air. If excessive heat loss is occurring, part of the enclosure lid may be covered.

Water quality is extremely important for your Tree Frog and the quality of water will vary between towns, cities and states. As a result, it’s vital that water be de-chlorinated before it’s used. Typically, we can accomplish this in a number of ways. The easiest way is to introduce chlorine-neutralizing chemicals into your Frog’s water supply. We carry everything you will need here at Petware House, so don’t hesitate to reach out to us.

As a general rule of thumb, be sure to change the water regularly, preferably once a week. The frequency of water changes will of course be dictated by the amount of water, the number and size of the frogs and presence and/or absence of plants and the type of filtration provided, if any.

Water should be changed regularly the frequency of changes will be dictated by the amount of water, the number and size of the frogs the presence/absence of aquatic plants and the presence/absence or type of filtration provided.

When replenishing the water supply in a tank, it’s best to allow for the temperature change. Be sure that your heater is powerful enough to heat the water up to the required temperature quickly. Be sure not to use warm water from your tap as it will likely contain copper which is toxic to frogs. If hot water is required, heat some cold water in a stainless steel pot.

Filtration will help reduce the frequency of water changes. Most types of filtration may be used but its important to ensure that the water is no too turbulent as it may trap tadpoles and quite possible drown younger frogs.

Tree Frogs are largely nocturnal but will expose themselves to sunlight or ultra violet light. Studies have suggest Frogs that don’t get enough light often develop deformed or stunned growth.

Frogs as well as other species have a high UV requirement and need lighting in the 250nm – 400nm range. While several options exist, some are quite expensive and too powerful for a small tank. As an example, Metal halide lights are exceptional for plant growth and emit light of the correct wavelength, but under some scenarios, it may be too powerful. Not all metal halide lamps emit light of the correct wavelength so seek further advice from those who use these lights, or contact us here at Petware House and we will be pleased to provide you with advice and the best possible solutions.

Although there are several types of fluorescent lights that are now being sold as full-spectrum lighting, most do not emit UV lighting or do so for a very short periods of time.

The most cost effective lighting is to use a dual fitting. Mount one side of the fitting with a full-spectrum florescent tube (e.g. Grlous, Biolux, etc) for plant growth and the other side with a blacklight or UV florescent tube.

The most cost effective lighting is to use a dual fitting. Mount one side of the fitting with a full-spectrum florescent tube (e.g. Grlous, Biolux, etc) for plant growth and the other side with a blacklight or UV florescent tube.

While many types of UV tubes are in existence, those which are white or near white when powered down and which glow a pale blue, when powered up emit light in the right spectrum. At all costs, avoid using lights which are dark blue when switched off, or which cause white colors to fluoresce, or emit no visible light when turned on.

Be sure to replace fluorescent tubes every eighteen to twenty-four months, even if they are still working, as their output diminishes, which will render them useless. It’s highly suggested florescent fittings be approximately 40cm from the tank floor as the UV emitted will only penetrate this far.

In nature most frogs diet will be completely insectivorous. As a result, in captivity avoid using any substitute food in whole or in part of your frogs diet. The most common issue we’ve seen in frogs are directly related to the lack of calcium or too much protein in the diet. For a proper diet, a calcium and multivitamin powder should be mixed and dusted on any food prior to feeding. Simply place your Frog’s insectivores in a small plastic bag, spring in a calcium and multivitamin powder mix and shake the bag until its all well coated. Do this for at least fifty percent of the food you feed your frog to help avoid and calcium deficiency.

It’s not necessary to mix large quantities of calcium and multivitamin powder as the mixture will not store well after mixing as the calcium can denature the vitamins. Keep in mind that frogs have not evolved to cope well with a diet high in protein and the tendency to feed them young mice or strips of meat put extra strain on the frogs organs, most notably, the kidneys. Inappropriate diets will lead to gout, irreversible kidney damage and ultimately, death.

We’ve all heard that variety if the spice of life and frogs know this all too well. Be sure to supply your frog with a variety of invertebrates and insects and you should have few diet problems. Younger frogs will enjoy eating flies, moths, small crickets, roaches and will should have food available at all times.

Young frogs typically reach breeding size in eight to twelve months. Adults will eat just about anything that moves and can be conveniently placed in the mouth, they should be offered about ten to twenty percent of their own body size, evenly divided over two or three feedings each week.

During colder months, or when our tank temperatures are reduced, your frogs will need less food. It will be important to increase and reduce food in both quantity and frequency with the changing temperatures of your enclosure. Remove drowned insects so as not to foul the water, or feed your grogs individually by holding the insects on tweezers.

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